You can put in the placket only once the waistline has been established on the petticoat to ensure that the depth of the opening stays the same.
Draping on the stand to find the waist
- Waistline is established by using measurements to set up the stand accordingly and then draping the petticoat on the stand over the bum pads.
- Using cotton tape around the waist to hold up the petticoat, arrange the fabric to give the desired length and shape.To manage the fabric, often pleats or gathers are used to manage the bulk of material at the top. Usually there will be more pleats or gathers at the side and back than at the front, as this will be more flattering the the wearer.You do not want to have the front completely flat as this may cause the petticoat to ‘cave’ inwards at the front.
- Once you are happy with the arrangement and the length of the petticoat, use soluble marker to draw a like or points round the waistline.
- Removing the petticoat from the stand and laying flat folded in half (CF to CB), you can see the marker with gaps (where the fabric was folded).
- To make the waistline you just follow the point and join them up making sure that the line is similar on both sides and meets at the cb and cf.
Inserting the placket
- The placket should measure 30cm x 2.5cm when finished.
To achieve this you will need a 63cm x 9 cm strip of fabric as a ‘facing’ is required. (2 x length of placket + seam allowance / 2 x 30cm + 3cm = 63cm).
- Measure down 30cm from the waistline. Sew from the hem to this point (or open th seam from the waist down to the point).
- Press the seam allowances flat on the petticoat closure at cb before inserting the placket.
- Press both long sides of the placket facing to wrong side of fabric by 1.5cm so that both sides are reinforced and the centre is flexible enough to fold over application edges.
- At the bottom of the cb closure point, snip the seam allowances so that they can lie flat.
- With right sides together, ‘straighten out’ closure at cb so it becomes a straight line and lay the placket along the right hand side of the opening, attaching the facing with a 1.5cm seam allowance and continuing to the top edge of the left hand side of opening.
- Press seam allowance towards facing
- Fold the placket over to encase the raw edge. If there is any excess, this should be hidden on the inside.
- Edge or sink stitch to neaten.
- At the bottom of the placket, stitch a diagonal line from the fold up to approx 2 cm at the edge. This will help the placket to lay flat.