sew.ciety.net

Studying Theatrical Costume and other adventures in London - sewing, fabrics and events.

Tag: design

Homework 26: Quilted petticoat – marking out the ovals

This week I started on the overlapping ovals that will fill the top area of the quilted petticoat. The design is similar to the quilting pattern called ‘The 7 treasures of Buddha‘ where circles are used instead of ovals, but I am sure it wasn’t referred to as that in the 18h century.

Planning

I wanted to make sure that the there would be complete ovals all the way round, so I would not have any that were skinny/fat/incomplete and so the pattern would look even all around.

  1. measure the circumference of the petticoat
  2. work out roughly how big the ovals should be
  3. divide the circumference of the petticoat by the width of the ovals,  adjusting slightly to take up any excess
  4. make a template oval using card (fished out from the recycling box), putting a cross marking the centre/top/bottom/left/right points
  5. draw out on pattern paper and measure to check calculations are correct. Use the cross marking on the template to line up and position correctly to draw one oval to the next.

I am glad I drew out the pattern on paper first. The ovals I ended up with were about 2/3rds smaller the size of the ones I originally thought would be a good size. This obviously means more stitching, but  I think it will look better in the long run.

Transferring the pattern

Instead of using the transfer mesh and chacopel pencil to mark the ovals, I used the card template and a silver quilting pencil along with my pattern master to make sure everything was level.

Marking out the ovals using patternmaster, card template and silver quilters pencil

Marking out the ovals using patternmaster, card template and silver quilters pencil

I started at the centre front above the front panel pattern. In the image above, the quilt is laid out on the table upside down (with the waistline of the quilt closest to me and the hem furthest away). The pattern master is (almost) following the centre front line and I have used the horizontal guideline on the card template to make it level. In the image below you can get a closer look.

First oval drawn over CF line. Template positioned ready to draw the next oval.

First oval drawn over CF line. Template positioned ready to draw the next oval.

I ended using a long ruler to make points to mark the line where the centre of each oval should line up along the circumference of the petticoat. I wanted to make sure this horizontal line would meet up at the centre back before I marked out all the ovals. I knew I would end up following the wrong line if I had to redo the guide marks. The silver pencil is quite faint on this colour fabric, but this is good as I don’t want it to show later.

You can see 3 rows with the ovals overlapping to make the pattern

You can see 3 rows with the ovals overlapping to make the pattern

Having the cross on the template made it a lot easier to line up the template. Each time I drew an oval I would mark the top/bottom/left/right quarter points and use these to place the next, making sure I was also following the horizontal circumference guide points.

Close up showing ovals overlapping and how the cross on the card template helps to position the oval squarely shape

Close up showing ovals overlapping and how the cross on the card template helps to position the oval squarely shape

At the top of the centre back of the petticoat had not been sewn up to allow access to get in for fittings, so I pinned this up carefully, but didn’t draw the centre back ovals. I could see that it would match up, but I will quilt the rest, sew up the seam and then sort this bit out.

Centre back of the petticoat.

Centre back of the petticoat.

Right, with most of that marked out – only 70 ovals to sew!

Class 26: Quilted petticoat – bottom border continued

Not too much to report today, just plodding along with the bottom border of the quilted petticoat. I am just finishing the back where the pattern joins, so it has been a little tricky to make sure the pattern meets and still looks good.

Just to remind myself of the goal it should look something like this:

Silk quilted 18th century petticoat - Musum of fine art Boston

Silk quilted 18th century petticoat - Musum of fine art Boston

The main differences between the petticoat above are that: the one above has a silk top fabric, mine is cotton; and I have a large tree design on the front.

The centre back seam will look more similar to the above image as where the bottom border meets at the back the vines meet at a short ‘trunk’ section.  You can just make this out in the picture below (although it is not too clear as there is a slight crease).

Bottom border 'Trunk' at centre back of quilted petticoat

Bottom border 'Trunk' at centre back of quilted petticoat

Next class (after bank holiday):

  • Starting on bodice, so we need to bring domette/lawn/drill/top fabric
  • Quilted petticoat should be finished (hmm – I still have a lot to do)

Class 20: Quilted petticoat front panel design

Unfortunately Claire was not in today, but we were all in the middle of something, so we could just get on with it for the day. I still hadn’t finished the design for my quilted petticoat, so I could at least start quilting that next week. I am not really used to drawing, and started off quit slow. I think part of it was confidence to get going.

Claire’s advice, as well as other peoples I had read online, was to start quilting from the middle and work your way out. It makes sense as then you deal with any issues at the edge, if the fabric has stretched or shrunk. Also, I think it would make it really hard to make lines meet if you had a very structured or repetitive design.

I finished the front panel design as homework and this was the result:

Quilted petticoat design - front panel

I think one of the reasons it took me so long to finish the design was that I was apprehensive about how I was going to transfer the design on to the fabric.

At the end of the day, I left early and went to Peter Jones to buy cotton thread. I had bought some viscose thread, but had read that you should really try and use the same fibre for the thread and the fabric, because if one is stronger it will cut through the other. Also, the viscose thread was very fine and after looking at some of my classmates quilting, it did look better with a thicker thread. Threads nowadays are also much finer than they would have been in the 18th century.

at the edgeat the edge

© 2018 sew.ciety.net

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑