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Studying Theatrical Costume and other adventures in London - sewing, fabrics and events.

Tag: ebay

Cockade shoes – before and after

After the dying and the cockade making – the shoes are finally finished.

Red, white and blue cockade shoes finished

Red, white and blue cockade shoes finished

This is how they looked before:

Second hand £5 wedding shoes off ebay

Second hand £5 wedding shoes off ebay

You have to agree they are much more in keeping with the overall design now.

Homework 32: Dying the shoes

The wedding shoes I bought off ebay arrived today. I had looked for something with a shaped heel, pointed toe and a tongue. The heal wasn’t as chunky as I would have liked, but it was hard to find something in my £5 (including postage) budget.

Second hand £5 wedding shoes off ebay

Second hand £5 wedding shoes off ebay

I knew they would not be a good colour, so I had also ordered a 12 colour sample pack of transfer dye from ColourCraft (don’t bother trying to order online, the site crashes and you have to call them to give your payment details anyway – good customer service over the phone though). I haven’t used transfer paint before, but Anne had used them on her shoes and it came out really well.

First I would need to get those lovely bows off which turn out to be held on with tough bits of wire.

Using pliers to get the bows off the shoe

Using pliers to get the bows off the shoe

Whatever decoration I used would have to cover up the glue and wire hole marks.

One bow removed, another to go

One bow removed, another to go

Transfer dye

Anne said that she ended up painting diluted dye straight on to her shoes and it seemed to work quite well. When I tried it, the fabric did seem to suck up the colour and distribute it fairly evenly. There were areas where it did not take so well, I think this was where they were slightly dirty or had glue, but it wasn’t too noticeable.  I used a swatch from the petticoat fabric to try and get the same hue.

Painting transfer dye on to the shoes

Painting transfer dye on to the shoes

The heels seemed to be a slightly different colour, so I had to put more dye on to make them look blue rather than greenish. This meant that they were quite a bit darker than the rest of the shoe. I was careful that the darker blue didn’t seep on to the main part of the shoe. I tried to make the the same colour as the dark blue petersham I will be using for the rosette decoration (you can see a sample in the picture below).

Dyed shoes with darker heels

Dyed shoes with darker heels

Now I have to wait for them to dry. I was thinking that I might use a really hot hairdryer to try and stabilize the colour. Normally you would paint the transfer dye on to paper and then use an iron to press the design on to fabric.

I painted a test piece of fabric to see if water would affect the dye on the shoes after it had dried. The colour didn’t shift when I sprayed it with water, so I didn’t bother heating the shoes with the hair dryer. I figured it would be wet at the Wallace Collection anyway.

Homework 29: Cockade experiment

Petersham from Ribbons2U on ebay

Petersham from Ribbons2U on ebay

One of the requirements for our costume is that it has red, white and blue. So far I am doing quite well with this as my corset is red and white, and my top fabrics is blue and white. However, ever since seeing rosettes and cockades I really wanted to use them to decorate my costume.

I was even more inspired when I saw these sites:

So I thought I would start to make one myself.  Using petersham or grossgrain seemed to be good to use and so I ordered a 25mm  mixed colour selection and 5 meters of red, white and blue from Ribbons2U on ebay (good service, arrived quickly).

Looking at the sites above, especially the American Duchess, I thought about using the pin method, but in the end I decided to just start pleating in a straight line, stab stitching through in a similar colour thread. I made sure there was enough fabric in the fold so that I would be able to curve around the centre when I had made enough pleats.

First attempt at making an outer tier of a cockade

First attempt at making an outer tier of a cockade - front

Close up of the pleats on the first tier of cockade

Close up of the pleats on the first tier of cockade

Back of tier showing the stitching

Back of tier showing the stitching

As it was my first attempt, I thought I would use a colour I was less likely to use, but the tier didn’t turn out too bad.  I didn’t measure the the intervals for the pleats, I think if I did it would make it look more regular. I would have to add another one or 2 tiers and maybe a button in the centre. Quite happy as a first effort.

Class 21: Transferring the design and starting to quilt the petticoat

With all my good intentions, I still hadn’t started quilting the petticoat. To be honest, I was quite scared – mostly because I have not found a technique to transfer the design which I was comfortable with.

Some people mark and sew the design on the back, but Claire said it would be better if we marked the outside as then you were quilting what would be seen. This seemed to make more sense to me as I would be hand quilting and so would want the neater stitches on top.

If I was going to be marking on to the top fabric, I needed a marking technique which would not be visible at the end, which rules out using some transfer methods. Needle Crafter has an article of 10 Common Transfer Methods, which I found quite useful.

First experiments in transferring the design on to fabric

1. Dress makers carbon paper and tracing wheel

Eva, one of my classmates who is also making a quilted petticoat, told me it took her a day to transfer her design using the yellow carbon paper and smooth tracing wheel (they are about 1meter x 3meters). She also cleverly did this before basting the layers together. I had tried with my basted layers and with all the wading it just destroyed the pattern and hardly left a mark. On Eva’s darker fabric you could only just see the faint lines, and Eva was only able to quilt in daylight as she couldn’t make out the marks in artificial light.

I used this method for my hand quilting sample (where I transferred before basting). I found that I was not able to remove the yellow lines by rubbing or with a damp cloth. Looking at the instructions on the carbon paper, it did seem like you would have to machine wash the fabric to get it out.  I have a feeling my petticoat will be dry clean only.

2. Poking through and marking (Pouncing)

Not sure if there is a better name for this method (just found it – Pouncing), but it basically involves pressing through the pattern with a fairly blunt point (tapestry needle or blunt pencil) and then marking with something like an erasable fabric pen, powder, or possibly chalk or a quilting pencil.  I tried this with 2 types of fabric pen, a water soluble pen and a disappearing pen, as well as several quilting pencils. I found the pencils were better if you were drawing straight lines and found them hard to rub off.

The advantage of using this method with pens is that as long as you have tested that the ink will disappear or dissolve in water with the fabric you are using, then there should be no marks left on your fabric. *Always test the pens on scrap first*

First I pinned the pattern to the fabric, then I poked through with a blunt pencil (making sure it would not leave a mark on the fabric). Then I used the pen to mark the fabric through the holes on the paper pattern. To save time, I guess you could just use the fabric pen to poke through the pattern, but as it is a bit like a felt tip, I didn’t want to ruin the pen.

You can see from the pictures below, the pattern didn’t really transfer all that successfully on my first attempt using the disappearing pen. Luckily ink faded away completely when I left it open to the air for a couple of days.

Design 'poked through' with fabric pen

Design 'poked through' with fabric pen

Marks on the fabric - you can see that the design is not all that clear

Marks on the fabric - you can see that the design is not all that clear

I had another attempt making the dots closer together and using the soluble marker. It did come out much clearer.

Second attempt with the poke through method

Second attempt with the poke through method and water soluble fabric pen

Once I had finished quilting the area, I used a cotton bud to dab on plenty of clean water to each spot so that the ink would dissolve. When it dried, you couldn’t see a thing.

Removing the water soluable pen marks using a cotton bud and clean water

Removing the water soluble pen marks using a cotton bud and clean water

I was still not totally happy with either of those methods and did some research online and found this video demonstrating the Clover transfer mesh and Karisma fabric pencil.

After seeing this demonstration I looked around for the items, but couldn’t find a UK supplier for the Karisma fabric pencil. I ended up ordering a the transfer mesh canvas and Clover chacopel pencil set from Sew Essential, but they haven’t arrive in time for today’s class.

Starting the hand quilting

I was kind of hoping to wait for the transfer mesh, but Claire said I should just get started in the lesson. I realised that I had not basted my centre front and quarter lines, so I squared everything up and put those in using different coloured thread than the basting thread.

Using an angle ruler to mark the quater lines of the petticoat

Using an angle ruler to mark the quater lines of the petticoat

OK, now that I had no more excuses, I had to get on with the quilting.

This week the 43cm x 43cm Sew Easy frame I had ordered from an ebay shop arrived, so I set the section of fabric in to that to hold it in place.  I thought the plastic frame was quite expensive (£14 including shipping), but it does work well and can be taken apart so it doesn’t take up much space when you are not using it.

I choose one of the bud flowers fairly near the bottom of the petticoat, but quite close to the centre front and marked it out with the blue soluble marker in the pouncing method (the same one as in the pictures above).

Once the pattern was transferred on to the fabric, I loosened the fabric on the frame so that it would make it easier for me to be able to do the rocking motion of the quilting stitch that I had been studying in the youtube videos.

And I was off…

Hand quilting the first flower bud motif on the quited petticoat

Hand quilting the first flower bud motif on the quited petticoat

You can see in the picture above that I snipped the basting stitches out of the way as I moved in to that area.

The muslin (under) side of the finished flower bud motif

The muslin (under) side of the finished flower bud motif

Wow, that only took the rest of the day to complete.  I think I will have another 40 hours  of stitching to complete the petticoat.

Period shoes

Claire also asked us to look out for period looking shoes to wear with our costumes.  I started to do some research and found that the heels in England in the 1780′s are not as chunky as I thought.

The Charm of Rococo – Bata Shoe Museum

Pictorial history of shoes

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