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Tag: elastic

Homework 32: Button hole elastic

This evening I set out to put the button hole elastic on to the bodice and add the buttons to the skirt as Claire instructed during our last class:

  1. cut elastic with one or two holes, depending on the size and stretchyness. Cut half way between the one button hole and the next. You will need one for each bone or seam. I used three on each side. More on the side and back than on the front as most people tend to lean forwards more.
  2. machine zig-zag stitch the edges to stop from fraying
  3. use double thread to sew in place
  4. place them so that they finish 15mm-25mm above the waistband
  5. during a fitting work out where to place the buttons on the underskirt
  6. use a flat button on the inside of the underskirt

I had already zig-zag stitched the edges ofthe elastic to stop them from fraying.

Zig-zag stitching the button hole elastic

Zig-zag stitching the button hole elastic

Measuring how far away from the edge to place the bottom of the elastic

Measuring how far away from the edge to place the bottom of the elastic

Elastic sewn in place

Elastic sewn in place

Checking the stretchiness and that it it firmly in place

Checking it is firm


Sewing on a button to the overskirt

Sewing on a button to the overskirt. Pin marking where it should be placed.

Ben helped me during a fitting to mark on the overskirt where the buttons should go.

Buttons sewn on the wrong side (should be on the inside -  I had sewn 5 out 6 before I noticed)

Buttons sewn on the wrong side (should be on the inside - I had sewn 5 out 6 before I noticed)

Once I had rectified my mistake – Button elastic was in action.

Button elastic in action

Button elastic in action

Feels like I could be nearly finished with the costume. Only a few more bits to do.

Homework 32: Making up the cuffs

Using the piece I cut in class 32, I sewed a 8mm bias channel about 30mm from the selvage edge. This was to put in elastic so the edge would be ruffled. I then gathered along the curved edge so that it would provide the baggy shape with a straight edge at the bottom of the cuff.

Cutting the cuff in lawn

Cutting the cuff in lawn

The cuff had to fit in to the bodice sleeve, so gathering had to fit on a bias strip 36cm long.

Bias binding the top of the cuff

Bias binding the top of the cuff

The elastic channel looked really bulky and not very good.

Using bias for the elastic channel

Using bias for the elastic channel - very ugly

Because it looked so hideous, on the other cuff, I just put a pleat in the fabric and threaded the elastic through that. The elastic I was using was flat and only 4mm wide.

Using a pleat in the cuff to hold the elastic

Using a pleat in the cuff to hold the elastic

This looked a lot better, so I unpicked the other cuff and did it the same way. All of this had to be hand sewn as it is very visible and machine stitching would not be correct for this period.

Once I was happy with the cuffs, I just slip stitched them to the facing inside the sleeve.

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