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Tag: fichu

Homework 32: Hemming the fichu

I used the selvage edge for the straight length of the fichu and just did a small rolled hem on the angled sides.

rolling the hem on the fichu

rolling the hem on the fichu

Class 32: Final fitting and finishing touches

Painting showing chemise poking out

Painting showing chemise poking out

Today was just for finishing touches as is the last class before we have our costumes ready for the photo shoot in the beautiful surroundings of  the Wallace Collection.

In the class today, I made a toile of the cuffs and fichu as I only had a limited amount of lawn to use.  I also had a fitting and Claire went over some of the final details like ruching the overskirt, attaching the bodice to the overskirt and putting in a placket on the bodice.

Softening – cuffs and neckline

These cuffs would be made of cotton lawn and would be set just inside the bodice sleeve to give the impression of a chemise poking out.

I started by draping some of the lawn to see how much I would need for the gathers.

Working out roughly how much lawn to use

Working out roughly how much lawn to use

Taking some measurements and working from shapes Claire had explained to me, I drew a pattern and cut it out in scrap fabric which was a similar weight to my lawn. The cuff should be baggier at the bottom than at the top and the seam on the inside of the arm (same as bodice sleeve).

Cutting a toile using pattern piece for the cuff

Cutting a toile using pattern piece for the cuff

Checking the cuff toile in the bodice

Checking the cuff toile in the bodice

I also made a toile for the fichu which I tried during the fitting. It was a lot smaller than some of the others, but I didn’t want anything bulky looking. Claire gave me a little cotton lace to add to the bodice to soften up the neckline.

Cutting the cuff in lawn

Cutting the cuff in lawn

Using the fichu toile to cut the lawn

Using the fichu toile to cut the lawn

Fitting

To remember for the final fitting:

  • make sure you have the costume shoes on (or at least heels with the same height)
  • no t-shirts/tops under corset
Final fitting. The overskirt has been tucked in to the pocket slits.

Final fitting. The overskirt has been tucked in to the pocket slits.

Ruching the overskirt

Several methods can be used depending on the style or fabric you are using:

  • rouleaux loops from inside to out
  • tapes on the underside
  • tacking stitches

I am going to use rouleaux loops made from the same fabric as the overskirt and bodice.

Attaching the bodice to the skirt

  • swing stitches
  • stab through
  • button elastic

Button elastic method:

  1. cut elastic with one or two holes, depending on the size and stretchyness. Cut half way between the one button hole and the next. you will need one for each bone or seam. I used 3 on each side. More on the side and back than on the front.
  2. Machine zig-zag stitch the edges to stop from fraying
  3. use double thread to sew in place
  4. place them so that they finish 15mm-25mm above the waistband
  5. during a fitting work out where to place the buttons on the underskirt
  6. use a flat button on the inside of the underskirt
Zig-zag stitching the button hole elastic

Zig-zag stitching the button hole elastic

Placket/modesty panel/ eyelet guard

Use top fabric and drill layer.

When used behind hook and eye fastenings, the placket can be about 5cm wide and is placed on the same side as the eyes.

If used behind eyelets the placket should be wider to take in to account how tight the lacings will be done up and how close the panels will go together.

Homework

Finish the costume ready for next week:

  • Under petticoat – finish waistband and hook.
  • bodice – lace on neckline, button hole elastic, placket, cuffs
  • overskirt – finish waistband and make rouleaux, buttons to attach to bodice
  • fichu – cut and hem
  • pockets
  • cockades
  • shoes
  • hat
  • mop
  • dye under petticoat

Things to bring to the Wallace collection

  • costume
  • small sewing kit with coloured thread, extra fabric, safety pins.
  • packed lunch, snacks and drink
  • no  jewellery
  • make sure you are not wearing nail varnish

Class 31: Period bodice – fitting and finishing

When I got in to class I got on my costume to fit the bodice and work out what what left to do.

Fitting the bodice. You can clearly see it needs a placket.

Fitting the bodice. You can clearly see it needs a placket.

There were a number of things I needed to fix/amend/do:

  1. piping – sort out the ends at centre front so they can be tightened (next time use smaller gauge piping, preferably cotton as it has better grip)
  2. hook and eye fastenings
    • stab stitch through to better hold in place
    • stitch around so that none of the metal on the hoops show
  3. still to do:
    • front placket/modesty panel
    • softener around neckline
    • cuffs – made to look like it is the chemise showing through

Ends of the piping

When I was applying the piping I couldn’t quite remember how Claire had asked us to do it, so I had finished it like this:

Opps! Piping finished the wrong way

Opps! Piping finished the wrong way

Opps! Folded back incorrectly

Opps! Folded back incorrectly

What I should have done is unpick the last bit of piping and turned it in so that the cord would be free to hang out and be tightened.

The correct way to end the piping

The correct way to end the piping

To correct it I had to:

  1. unpick the top and bottom hooks and eyes, and some of the piping
  2. turn back the piping end
  3. reslip stitch the piping
  4. put back the hooks and eyes

It seamed to take ages when it felt like I had so much left to do.

Fichu

I spoke with Claire about the fichus and we looked in some of the books in class. Some fichus are much larger than others, but as mine would be tucked in to my dress, only a small one would be necessary.

Fichu pattern from 'Period costume for stage and screen'

Fichu pattern from 'Period costume for stage and screen'

Neckerchief pattern form 'Evolution of fashion'

Neckerchief pattern from 'Evolution of fashion'

Next week we will be working on:

  • hems and draping
  • using button hole elastic to join the skirt and bodice

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