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Studying Theatrical Costume and other adventures in London - sewing, fabrics and events.

Tag: hand sewing

Homework 32: Making up the cuffs

Using the piece I cut in class 32, I sewed a 8mm bias channel about 30mm from the selvage edge. This was to put in elastic so the edge would be ruffled. I then gathered along the curved edge so that it would provide the baggy shape with a straight edge at the bottom of the cuff.

Cutting the cuff in lawn

Cutting the cuff in lawn

The cuff had to fit in to the bodice sleeve, so gathering had to fit on a bias strip 36cm long.

Bias binding the top of the cuff

Bias binding the top of the cuff

The elastic channel looked really bulky and not very good.

Using bias for the elastic channel

Using bias for the elastic channel - very ugly

Because it looked so hideous, on the other cuff, I just put a pleat in the fabric and threaded the elastic through that. The elastic I was using was flat and only 4mm wide.

Using a pleat in the cuff to hold the elastic

Using a pleat in the cuff to hold the elastic

This looked a lot better, so I unpicked the other cuff and did it the same way. All of this had to be hand sewn as it is very visible and machine stitching would not be correct for this period.

Once I was happy with the cuffs, I just slip stitched them to the facing inside the sleeve.

Homework 32: Hemming the fichu

I used the selvage edge for the straight length of the fichu and just did a small rolled hem on the angled sides.

rolling the hem on the fichu

rolling the hem on the fichu

Homework 29: Quilted petticoat – binding the hem

Yeay for another sewing intensive bank holiday weekend. Today I will apply to the hem the bias binding I made yesterday.

As I have grown sew attached to hand sewing since starting the quilt, I think it would be sacrilege at this point to let my lovely quilt go anywhere near a machine, so on with the hand sewing.

Cutting off excess seam allowance using pinking sheers

Cutting off excess seam allowance using pinking sheers

The bias strips I had cut had several joins as the piece of fabric I had used was only so wide. I wanted to make sure that the joins would not be too noticeable and were placed symmetrically on the petticoat. I took this in to account when pinning the bias in place before sewing.

Centre mark on the bias binding is lined up with the centre front of the petticoat

Centre mark on the bias binding is lined up with the centre front of the petticoat

Here you can see the bias joins, just before the left quarter line. The other join is in the same place on the other side.

Here you can see the bias joins, just before the left quarter line. The other join is in the same place on the other side.

Hand sewing on the bias along the fold line

Hand sewing on the bias along the fold line

Where the bias is meeting at centre back. I trimmed the excess to avoid bulk when folding over.

Where the bias is meeting at centre back. I trimmed the excess to avoid bulk when folding over.

Binding at the centre back. I didn't want to join it at an angle like at the sides  because of the centre back seam of the petticoat

Binding at the centre back. I didn't want to join it at an angle like at the sides because of the centre back seam of the petticoat

Folding over the binding - Almost done!

Folding over the binding - Almost done!

See tomorrows post for pictures of the binding and quilting finished.

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