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Tag: pockets

Homework 32: 18th century pockets

I don’t travel lightly. The idea of having a huge dress with no storage just seamed like madness, so I was determined to have pockets. One on each side to keep me balanced. I already had pocket slits after all.  Anyway, I had dyed my petticoats and bumpad red, so I needed these to stop the red showing through.

I was running out of time so had to knock these up quite quickly. They were going to be basic, but I didn’t want them to look shoddy, even if they weren’t going to be seen. They had to be fairly strong too, but I would leave things like binding the edges to after the photoshoot.

I using a picture from ‘Patterns of fashion’, I drafted a pattern leaving some additional material at the top which I could fold over to make channels for tapes to hold the pockets on.

Calico pockets using a design from 'Patterns of fashion'

Calico pockets using a design from 'Patterns of fashion'

For the slit position, I wanted to be able to get my hand in easily and for the pocket to be deep enough that things would not fall out, but not too deep that I would not be able to reach the bottom.

I wasn’t sure if the cotton was going to be strong enough, so I mounted it on to one of the calico layers and marked where the slit should be. For 2 pockets, I cut out 4 pieces in calico and 2 in the same blue cotton I had used for the quilted petticoat.

Using my seam ripper, I started off the slit and when it was big enough, I continued with scissors.

Using the seam ripper to start the slit

Using the seam ripper to start the slit

Using scissors to finish the slit

Using scissors to finish the slit



I cut v shapes at the top and bottom so I would be able to fold the opening back a little and stitch so there wouldn’t be a raw edge.

V shape at the bottom of slit

V shape at the bottom of slit

V shape cut at top of slit

V shape cut at top of slit


Pressing back the opening

Pressing back the opening (Opps! the iron was a little too hot)

I sewed round the opening, then sewed all  three layers together and cut off the excess with pinking shears.

Sewed down the turned back hem round the opening and used pinking shears to cut off excess

Sewed down the turned back hem round the opening and used pinking shears to cut off excess

Next I turned it out so the blue fabric was on the outside and cut back some of the additional fabric at the top.

Cutting back fabric, ready to fold over.

Cutting back fabric, ready to fold over.

Folding in place ready to sew up and thread tape through

Ready to fold, sew up, and thread tapes through



I put the pockets on tapes was place them on the stand over the under petticoat and bumpad, made sure they were in the right position for the pocket slits, and put in a few tacking stitches so they would not slip.

Damn! I forgot to take a picture of the finished product  - must remember to add that later.

Homework 31: Quilted petticoat – pocket slits and waistband

Pocket slits

I had been putting this off for a while. I have to admit I was very nervous to be cutting in to the petticoat which had taken hours to quilt. Eva’s petticoat had slits in too, so I had a good chance to inspect and see what she had done.

I planned it all very carefully, working out how long the slits would need to be so that they would clear the bumpads and give you enough room to get your hand comfortably in and out. I had pleated the petticoat with the intention that the slits would be partially hidden in one of the folds on each side.

The pleated petticoat was only tacked on the petersham.  While the petticoat was on the stand (over the bum pads and underpetticoat) I undid a few tacks, pinnning securley so the pleats would not slip. This was to give me access to mark the slit line. I wanted the slit line to fall down the centre of one of the ovals, so I marked a dotted line from the waist to the end point using a soluble marker.

Blue dots mark where the pocket slits will go

Side of petticoat - the blue dots mark where to cut the pocket slit

I cut through the waistband following the dotted line while the petticoat was still on the stand, but this became awkward, so I decided to take it off to cut on a table.

Starting to cut the pocket slits

Starting to cut the pocket slits

I had visions of the whole quilt unravelling, so I had stay stitched down either side of the line, just in case.

About to cut through the quilted oval

Stay stitching down each side of the cut. About to cut through the quilted oval.

Phew, it was all ok, but I thought I should get on with the bias binding asap. I used one complete length, pinned in place and just bent around the bottom and back up.

Bias pinned in place round the bottom corner.

Bias pinned in place round the bottom corner.

I just turned over and slip stitched on the other side. Next time, I think I will apply the binding to the outside first and slip stitch on the inside.

Finishing the bias binding for the pocket slits

Finishing the bias binding for the pocket slits

Finished pocket slit

Finished pocket slit

Waistband

By cutting the waistband when making the pocket slits, I had divided it into two pieces, a back and front. I had to extend the petersham on the front piece as it needed to be longer so it could overlap the back.

I used the same fabric as the rest of the petticoat and cut two 14cm deep strips just longer than the front and back measurements. Folded them in half and then pinned in place ready to hand sew.

Waistband covering pinned in place to go over the petersham

Waistband covering pinned in place to go over the petersham

I hand stitched going through all layers to make sure it would be secure. Trimmed the excess and slip stitched the other side. I did not close the sides, just turned in,  so I would have a channel for the tapes to be threaded through.

Back of petticoat. You can see the tapes used to tie the petticoat and the pocket slits at the side.

Back of petticoat. You can see the tapes used to tie the petticoat and the pocket slits at the side.

To put on the petticoat, you would have to  do up the tapes for the back first, and then bring up the front panel and tie the tapes overlapping at the back. Theatrically, this might not be the ideal fastening if you have to get in for a quick change, and the tapes could come undone easily, but I do prefer the look if this was to be seen.

Side of petticoat - you can see the front panel overlapping the back

Side of petticoat - you can see the front panel overlapping the back

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