Using the piece I cut in class 32, I sewed a 8mm bias channel about 30mm from the selvage edge. This was to put in elastic so the edge would be ruffled. I then gathered along the curved edge so that it would provide the baggy shape with a straight edge at the bottom of the cuff.
Cutting the cuff in lawn
The cuff had to fit in to the bodice sleeve, so gathering had to fit on a bias strip 36cm long.
Bias binding the top of the cuff
The elastic channel looked really bulky and not very good.
Using bias for the elastic channel - very ugly
Because it looked so hideous, on the other cuff, I just put a pleat in the fabric and threaded the elastic through that. The elastic I was using was flat and only 4mm wide.
Using a pleat in the cuff to hold the elastic
This looked a lot better, so I unpicked the other cuff and did it the same way. All of this had to be hand sewn as it is very visible and machine stitching would not be correct for this period.
Once I was happy with the cuffs, I just slip stitched them to the facing inside the sleeve.
Tutor: Claire Porter (1 tutorial each term)
Teaching assistant: Eileen Hill
Costume: 18th century polonaise c.1770-1785 with undergarments
- Term 1: Undergarments – Corset and Petticoat
- Term 2: Toile for outerwear
- Term 3: Bodice and decoration
We will be using Jean Hunnisett’s book ‘Period costume for stage and screen‘ to make a costume for ourself.
Outerwear design to be ready for Christmas break. Design should include ‘red, white, blue’. We will need approx. 10 meters of fabric. £150 budget (max).
We have to keep a log book which records our learning, samples, photos, and evaluation (what went well and what went wrong). This should be about 50 percent photos and illustrations to 50 percent writing.
Assessment will be on our log book.
Course consists of 4 units to obtain a BTEC Level 2 Certificate in Fashion and Clothing, these are:
- Unit 7: Developing Pattern Construction Skills
- Unit 8: Developing Sewing Skills for Fashion
- Unit 9: Developing Production Techniques for Fashion
- Unit 10: Fashion Realisation
Additionally we will get the Kensington and Chelsea college certificate in ‘Theatrical Costume’
Hand outs (read for homework):
- Course Handbook
- Contact sheet
- Term schedule
- Directory of suppliers and reading list
- Project brief: Unit 9: Developing production techniques – Technical and practical application.
What we will need for next week:
- seam ripper
- fabric scissors
- paper scissors
- white cotton
- tracing wheel
- carbon paper
- tailors chalk
- 10 meters of medium weight calico or cambric (can be bought from Shepherds Bush – A1 or Classic textiles).
As usual, I turned up just in time. The morning had been going so well, but then there was traffic from Earls court to college and I had chosen to take the bus. Anyway it wasn’t too bad and there was still a space for me in between Lorna and Alex.
Claire, our tutor for the year, gave an introduction about the college, the course, and what was expected. The theatrical costume course at Kensingtion and Chlesea College (KCC) is based on a BTEC in fashion and clothing level 2 certificate, but you also get a certificate from KCC to say it specialises in theatrical costume. Claire gave us a psychometric test, and quite a few hand-outs which contained a list of London fabric shops and museums we were to visit in the afternoon.
In the hand-outs there was information about our first 2 units: developing production techniques (unit 9), where we will make samples to demonstrate our knowledge and skills; and developing pattern construction skills (unit 7), for which we will make undergarments for a polonaise (1770-1785). The course is made up of 4 units (60 hours each), and we will be doing 2 in the first term and then one each term after.
We were also introduced to Eileen who will be teaching us some of the practical parts of the course – samples etc. Eileen showed us log books and portfolios of previous year students. They were very impressive and a lot of work had gone in to the presentation as well as the content.
In the afternoon I paired up with Kate. We walked to the Victoria and Albert museum to look at the fashion and theatre & performance collections as well as getting distracted through the other rooms. Afterwards we walked to the Wallace collection where I discovered Mary Robinson, an actress, writer and poet who lived from 1758 until 1800.
Robe 'Polonaise' 1775-80 at the V&A
Mary Robinson by John Hoppner c 1780